1. Taking a good, long look

2.Plunging into the historic centre

3. Walking by the Sea

4. Visiting art galleries, museums, churches and palaces

5. Finding a haven in the villas and parks

6. Exploring the hundreds of possibilities in Porto Antico

7. Discovering the “Great Wall” & the forts up on the hills

8. Seeing the sights from the water

other pictures on the way (14.05.2005)

Genoa is extremely richly endowed with history and art. Its churches, palaces and museums have charming urban settings, but throughout the last century the city has remained rather off the beaten track of the normal touristic art circuit. Like its reticent inhabitants, Genoa has never wanted to show off and boast about its treasures, even during the periods when it was dubbed “The Proud Lady of the Sea”.

However what makes Genoa quite a unique place is its multifaceted nature which a visitor won’t always be able to take in: land and water, light and shade, wet weather and dry weather/floods and droughts/downpours and scorching heat, rock and foam, hubbub and silence, swarms of people and solitude, the horizontal and the vertical, the past and the future – all these aspects exist easily side by side in an intriguing and fascinating world.

So, when you come to Genoa, try to approach it from several angles: you won’t regret it!

1.Taking a good, long look

Genoa’s geographical position really is quite special and can be appreciated visually from its different viewpoints. By going up behind the city you will discover it has similarities with a human being: its solid shoulders lean back against the hills, its old lap extends down to the deep, open sea and from the top of the mountains where the wind ruffles its tumbling hair you can admire the faraway hem of its wide gown that plays with the waves of about 30 kilometres of shoreline from east to west. Genoa is a city enveloped in light as it stretches out between the high land and the water. It’s easy to go up several hundred metres from the city centre in just several minutes and in one sweeping glance you can then experience the dizzy effect of the colours of the sea blending with those of the ever-changing sky, a sky for each compass point. Go up, stop even if only for a few minutes and fill yourself with something that will last a long time...

There are countless viewpoints. Here are the most impressive: - from the square called Spianata di Castelletto , reached in several seconds by lift from Piazza Portello in the historic centre; - from Righi , reached in several minutes by funicular from Largo Zecca in the historic centre; - the walk along the old walls, le Mura del Prato, above Piazza della Vittoria; - from la Lanterna , the port’s lighthouse up which you can climb (720 steps!) that stands near the Terminal Traghetti (Ferry Terminal); - from the top of the lift of Renzo Piano’s sculpture called il Bigo in the Porto Antico (Old Port); - from Granarolo, reached in several minutes by funicular starting behind the Stazione Principe railway station; - from the two mountains Monte Fasce and Monte Moro, 30 minutes by car from the city centre; - from Sant’Ilario up above Nervi, getting there by bus or train and then continuing on foot.

3. Walking by the Sea

Genoa has more than fifteen kilometres of walks hugging the coastline, most of them to the east of the city. Here are the best two:

- the Corso Italia walk starts at the international exhibition centre called Fiera del Mare on a very wide pavement, passes the city centre’s bathing establishments and continues to the old fishing community of Boccadasse . Here you can go down to the beach then climb up to the vantage point behind the little port to admire the views;

- the walk from the little port of Nervi to Capolungo. This is doubtless the most romantic promenade at all times of the day and night, far from traffic, with sheer rocks hurtling down to the sea with invigorating salty air on one side and wonderful parks with heady perfumes on the other. (There is a regular train service to Nervi.)

Finally, a very interesting walk is about to be completed around the port. It goes from Fiera del Mare to the lighthouse la Lanterna , going past the Porto Antico (the Old Port), the Stazione Maritttima (where cruise ships dock) and around to the Terminal Traghetti (Ferry Terminal). Part of the route is already open to the public.

4. Visiting art galleries, museums, churches and palaces

Genoa’s art scene has exploded in the last decade and by now is known to many, but not to everyone. It is easy to point out the extraordinary quality of the Genoese artistic heritage and especially its good condition, due to the huge efforts made in recent years to promote these riches while restoration projects have been taking place throughout the city.

We have already referred to the impressive architectural and artistic merits of the historic centre (cf 2.) where the Cathedral of San Lorenzo is the real jewel in the crown and the elegant Palazzo Ducale (Ducal Palace) houses artistic events that are never the same twice.

But Genoa’s real novelty is the creation of three new museum centres, the biggest of which is dedicated to Genoese historical art from the Renaissance and Baroque periods. This particular network has a really extraordinary urban setting for it links up some of the most beautiful homes of the great Genoese families. You start in the medieval square of Piazza Pellicceria with the Galleria Nazionale di Palazzo Spinola, go along the sixteenth-century Strada Nuova (New Street now renamed Via Garibaldi ) to find the galleries of Palazzo Bianco, Palazzo Rosso and Palazzo Tursi, continue down Via Cairoli to the Chiesa dell’Annunziata church and then on to the seventeenth and eighteenth-century street of Via Balbi where the Museo di Palazzo Reale is situated. However, museums and art galleries apart, what really hits you about this route is the number of stunning old residences that will literally leave you open-mouthed in amazement, even if you only catch a glimpse of their courtyards, staircases and ceilings...

5. Finding a haven in the villas and parks

Strung along the thirty-kilometre length of the city there are numerous villas and parks that used to be holiday resorts for the noble Genoese families during the last century. Today many are open to the public, offering landscapes and artistic features that are well worth seeing.

The new Polo Museale di Arte Moderna (Museum Complex of Modern Art) in the Parchi di Nervi (Nervi Parks) is remarkably interesting. This links up Villa Gropallo, the Villa Serra Gallery of Modern Art, the Frugoni collection in Villa Grimaldi Fassio and the museum of Villa Luxoro. It is a real journey through art and the natural world, amongst plants from all corners of the globe and lawns overlooking the sea ( the Anita Garibaldi Promenade) with a play area and in the summer a small swimming pool for children shaded by olive trees.

It is also worthwhile going to Pegli to visit the eighteenth-century Villa Pallavicini. In its romantically inspired park are scattered exotic buildings, little lakes, grottoes and age-old vegetation – a trans-cultural vision of life and the world.

But there are also villas and parks in the city centre which are pleasant retreats to revitalise you with their peaceful gardens. Some villas have been transformed into museums. Villetta Di Negro which houses the Museo di Arte Giapponese (Museum of Japanese Art) is the nearest, situated above Piazza Corvetto a stone’s throw from the big fountain in piazza De Ferrari.

Finally we also advise you to walk along stretches of the Circonvallazione a Monte that acts like a sort of cornice looking out over the city, the port and the gulf. Perched on this ledge you can admire the courage and savoir-faire of the Genoese town-planners between the end of the nineteenth century and the first part of the twentieth century. Corso Firenze is an example for you. From Belvedere di Spianata Castelletto (take the lift there if necessary) walk to the castle called Castello De Albertis where the Museo delle Culture del Mondo (Museum of World Cultures) is situated.

6. Exploring the hundreds of possibilities in the Porto Antico

The Old Port area has only recently been handed back to the city and now contains an impressive number of recreational pursuits of all sorts. Cultural events, sporting activities, the arts, shopping and restoration projects create a place where you can happily wander around without any specific goal and then allow yourself to be tempted by one of the many ideas on offer.

L’ Acquario (the Aquarium) is the most famous attraction. It has not only an enormous variety of marine species that you can almost touch with your hand, but above all the bonus of an educational context that combines atmosphere with information about the exhibits.

The Museo Nazionale dell’Antartide (the National Antarctic Museum) is organized along similar pedagogical lines. Contrary to what a layman might expect, it is in no way a cold and chilly place but full of humanity (starting with the welcoming guides). Visitors are exposed to themes that are more crucial than ever regarding the ecological planetary system as seen from the only place on Earth (perhaps) where man has imposed respect.

For small children above all, it is interesting to go to the Città dei Bambini (Kids’ Town) where they can be amazed by carrying out experiments relating to certain laws of nature. They will also love the Spazio Luzzati (Luzzati Space) where one is surrounded by this great artist’s figurative creations that reflect the “old child” in him.

The novelty for 2004 is the third Genoese museum complex, i Musei del Mare e della Navigazione (the Sea and Navigation Museums). This network covers 6000 square metres over four floors and is the only museum in Italy devoted to merchant shipping. Not only will you have the opportunity of broadening your scientific knowledge via interactive and highly advanced multimedia activities; inside the old dockyards where galleys used to be built and repaired you will also be able to relive past seafaring eras.

7. Discovering the “Great Wall” and the forts up on the hills

A real marvel which many visitors overlook is the “Grande Muraglia”, a gigantic seventeenth-century wall that encircles the city, the last one to be built in the history of the Genoese Republic. It starts at sea level in the east, climbs up onto the mountain slopes behind and comes back down to the Lanterna lighthouse on the western side of the port. Although partially destroyed in the lower areas, a good nine kilometres of the wall remain intact, above all along the upper reaches that are interspersed with powerful defensive forts. The Parco Urbano delle Mura (City Ramparts Park) is one of the favourite haunts of the Genoese in search of peace and quiet and fresh air. You can reach it by car or take the funicular to Righi or Granarolo. From up there you can continue along the ridge towards Forte Diamante (Diamond Fort) to enjoy a wonderful, almost level walk, 500 metres above sea level at the watershed of the two valleys that lead down to the plain of the Po river (la Pianura Padana). There are incomparable views of the Appenine mountains (with the western Alps in the background) and the gulf of Genoa, right down to the headland of Portofino.  (On certain days in winter even Corsica peeps up on the horizon!).

8. Seeing the sights from the water

In order to see Genoa from the water it’s worthwhile taking advantage of the short Giro del porto (Port Tour) which leaves from the quayside next to the Aquarium in the Old Port and lasts 40 minutes.

But it’s much more thrilling to explore the coastline east of Genoa, as far as the promontory of Portofino. Here nature has blended in with its surrounding culture: there is a succession of fishing villages with their little harbours and multicoloured houses alternating with stretches of wild vegetation. This is also the junction of small, cultivated valleys where olive trees predominate. Between one village and another hillsides and headlands tumble down to the sea, while magnificent villas and gardens are set back in amongst the colourful Mediterranean plant life (with a fantastic display of flowering mimosa in January).

Up until now the Parco naturale di Portofino (Portofino Country Park) has protected its mountain and shoreline from interference and disfigurement. There are various possible itineraries taking land and water into account. For example you can arrive by boat at the Abbazia di San Fruttuoso (San Fruttuoso Abbey) which rises up in a tiny bay, walk along paths in the country park to Camogli and from there catch a train back to Genoa.